Dandelion Chip with Olympus E-510

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DISCLAIMER:
IF YOU SHOULD CHOOSE TO FOLLOW ANY OF THE FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS ON YOUR CAMERA, IT IS DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO WHOM THE TERMS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’ REFERS TO- WALK TO THE NEAREST MIRROR AND THAT FACE YOU SEE DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF YOU AS YOU LOOK INTO THE MIRROR IS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OF YOUR ACTIONS.

I recently purchased an adapter to mate M42 lenses to my Olympus E-510. The seller gave me a set of directions referring to the E1 family with a couple of updates supposedly referring to the E-510. Needless to say, they didn’t work. I then found three other sets of instructions on the Internet in various forums. None of these worked, I am assuming the writers had never had an E-510 within fifty yards of themselves and had only reworked what others had written.

What follows is exactly what I found to work with the Dandelion chip and my E-510. They will include how I set the custom aperture and focal length.

These first steps have to be taken first every time a setting is to be changed -they put the camera/adapter into a programming mode -

Turn the camera on

Set the mode to A

Set the focus to MF mode

Press the FN button just below the wheel to the right of the mode dial.

Press and release the lens release button – a simple push and release – do not rotate the lens

Within one second of the above step press and hold the FN button for three seconds

Release the FN button

Press and release the lens release button – a simple push and release – do not rotate the lens

At this point the aperture value should change as the wheel to the right of the mode dial is rotated – if not – turn the camera off and start over. If it doesn’t work after several attempts you may have a different Dandelion chip version than I have.

Note – The above steps have set the camera and chip in to a programing state. The next value entered will access a particular portion of the chip. To set the aperture use f5.6; to set the focal length use f8.0 The focus and the aperture of the M42 manual lens have no bearing on doing the programing. Leave the lens wide open and set the camera to allow shutter trip without the focus LED being active (MF).

Note – After changing either the aperture or focal length turn the camera off. Don’t just start changing the other value – the chip will get a headache.

Below are the steps to be taken AFTER entering the program mode – one set for aperture and another set for focal length (which I am assuming from my experience and Internet comments sets the IS feature value)-
———————–
To adjust the aperture value in the chip

Using the wheel, adjust the aperture value to 5.6 *

Press the FN button and release

a)Turn the wheel to select the first digit of the f value you want – referring to the values below

b)Make sure the lens cap is off and point at a fairly bright light source

c)Press the shutter completely down and release allowing only one shutter action to be completed – wait for the image to be saved on the card before continuing.

Set the second digit and do steps a, b and c again.

Press and release the lens release button

Turn off the camera

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F4.0=0 | F4.5=1 | F5.0=2 | F5.6=3 | F6.3=4 | F7.1=5 | F8.0=6 | F9.0=7 | F10=8 | F11=9

IE to set an aperture of 4.5 the first aperture value is 6.3 the second aperture value is 7.1

Values that can be entered are f1.0 to f8.0
=====

The value you choose should now be displayed and still there after turning off the camera, removing and replacing the lens and adapter and turning the camera back on

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To set the focal length –

Use the value of 8.0 rather than 5.6 *

Using the same values from the line above set five digits rather than 2

Otherwise each step is the same as for aperture

IE to set a focal length of 135 the values entered would be –

4.0 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 5.6 | 7.1

Values that can be entered are from 00001mm to 65535mm

The popular consensus is – the closer the focal length entered matches the lenses value, the better the IS works – thus it appears to be useful with a zoom lens you would have to fiddle each time you change the zoom value. I only use primes with these adapters. The default is said to be 65535mm, so either turn off the IS or set the value correctly before trying any actual photography. I was having a heck of a time the first time out after mounting the adapter with its original f2.8 and 65000mm+ setting. I was getting very out of focus and fuzzy results when the aperture was stepped down to 4.0 or smaller.

Using a Sears 50/1.4 I set the aperture for 2.0. I’ve found this setting to be useful with the RAW format from an actual 1.4 to 2.8 lens setting. The lens FL I set to 50mm.

This is copyrighted by me, please give my blog credit if you grab it entirely for re-use. Otherwise the Temporium blood worms I have under contract will crawl out of your modem one night and eat your brains – very noisily and very slowly. Failing that, paraphrase a bunch and they may leave you alone.

DISCLAIMER:
IF YOU SHOULD CHOOSE TO FOLLOW ANY OF THE PRECEEDING DIRECTIONS ON YOUR CAMERA, IT IS DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO WHOM THE TERMS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’ REFERS TO- WALK TO THE NEAREST MIRROR AND THAT FACE YOU SEE DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF YOU AS YOU LOOK INTO THE MIRROR IS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OF YOUR ACTIONS.

Pre 1940 Lenses

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Below is a picture of the lenses I currently (June 2009) am playing with:

This is a listing with the lens descriptions. The top two are the aperture blanks. The others are numbered from the top left to the bottom right.

M42 Lens On Nikon F Mount Modification – On Fujifilm S1 PRO

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Adapter Information On This Blog

Long story short-

I have modified my Fujifilm S1 PRO to accept M42 lenses directly without need of an optical adapter.
I have destroyed the sensor on the Fujifilm S1 PRO through carelessness – not related to the actual modification.

See my warning at the bottom of the right hand column on this blog regarding doing anything I describe on this blog. In this case, maybe I should have read it myself

Long story-

I noticed the thickness of the original mount on the S1. It eyeballed with a rule as ~2.5mm. Then I compared it to the thickness of the M42 to Nikon F mount adapter that I recently purchased. It eyeballed at ~1mm. This meant, if all went well, the 1mm difference between the registration of the Nikon F mount and the registration of an M42 lens would be more than made up.

Since the plate is held by only 5 screws, I removed it. The adapter appeared to be able to fit in the original mounts place if the electronic contact piece was removed. Two screws and a small pry later that was out of the way. Yes – the adapter fit nicely in place.

Using the original as a template, I drilled five holes with detents for the screw heads in the adapter. Then I put three of the screws in place, took a picture and proceeded to put the remaining screws in place. Disaster struck when the screwdriver slipped on the fourth screw. The tip of the screwdriver hit the shutter curtain leaving a small dimple. I figured that it wasn’t a big deal and finished the mounting.

I took a couple shots inside (it was around Midnight) to check close up focus and then put the leash on my Yellow Lab and went outside looking for something bright enough to check infinity focus. A store a few blocks away with a nicely lit up sign gave me that opportunity.

Returning home, I downloaded the TIFFs onto my computer and did a quick look. OOPS! (not really what I said) There was a huge black spider web in the images. Assuming what the problem was, I proved it by opening the shutter as if I was going to clean the sensor. Yup, the cover over the sensor was smashed.

Bottom line –

The actual modification works. The two images with the spiderweb were taken with a cheap Tamron 70-210mm M42 mount via adaptall. The closeup of the digital clock was approximately at a distance of ~7 feet, the sign at a distance of ~400 feet. In fact, the lens actually focused beyond this distance.

NOTE: Make sure to have the M/AF switch on the front of the camera near the lens release set to M to ensure the focus motor doesn’t try to operate.

Being a klutz ruined the camera. Please read my warning referred to above before attempting this yourself.

In retrospect, since this was to be a non-reverse able modification anyways, if I were to do it again I would simply use a good brand of gel super glue in the place of the whole drilling of holes and use of screws to hold the adapter in place. (read the disclaimer)

Spring Is Here ! At Least Until Tomorrow …….

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We got a reprieve today. Last night the forecast was for 1-3 inches of snow and overcast for today. The snow did not fall and the Sun has been out all day. I took the time to take a few pictures with my Canon XTi with a Sears 50/1.4 M42 lens mounted with an adapter.

These were all taken at f1.4 to try out the small depth of field. I guess I am not going to have to spend money on a new EF Canon 50/1.4 lens. The Sears lens had been pushed into the back of a drawer after I compared it to my Canon EF 50/1.8 metal mount in relation to the additional brightness available. I just never considered using it seriously for actual photography. The DOF difference and the brightness have made me a believer, also it is nice to have a metal lens.

Anyone know the years of manufacture/sale for the Sears lens? Also, what company manufactured it ?

The New Pinhole Project Is Complete

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The pinhole is mounted in the M42 lens body to be used via an M42 to EOS adapter on my Canon XTi. There is about 20mm of focus movement available. A few test shots with ASA 1600 and a rainy day indicate that the focus range looks good. The proof will come when we get some Sun.

This again, is for the upcoming Pinhole Day 2009 on April 26, 2009.

CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER ADAPTER INFORMATION ON MY BLOG
CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER PINHOLE INFORMATION ON MY BLOG

Kodak Bimat Lens Is Finally Mounted and New Pinhole Lens Almost Done

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It took longer than anticipated due to my midstream change to using a bellows for future mounting of old lenses to my Canon XTi.

The original method I was using involved purchasing an old lens, then removing all the optics, then getting the focal length set correctly, then taking the optics out of the old lens, and mounting the old optics. This was very time consuming.

Now I have a M42 screw type bellows mounted to the XTi via a focus confirming adapter (soon to be replaced with one of the new custom settings version). Then all that is needed is to directly glue the lens to an M42 screw type macro tube. Then screw on the lens to the bellows and shoot. Much easier and cheaper. As a bonus the lens is not harmed except for the glue used in the mounting.

Today I have finished the old M42 135mm mount for the pinhole project. All that is left is a quick visit to Mr Pinhole’s Website to get the dimension for the pinhole itself and then just get it mounted to try it out. I hope to be able to use this for Pinhole Day 2009.

Photos will follow when the Sun comes out (sometime in June I believe).

New M42 to EOS Adapter With User Changeable Custom Settings

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CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER ADAPTER INFORMATION ON MY BLOG

Today I received the user changeable adapter. The first hint that it wasn’t the ’standard’ chip was the default f1.4 rather than the f2.0 on the screen.

The directions say it can be used to set aperture value, focal length, calibration for front and back focus, and switch between AF/MF mode. I am only interested right now in the focal length and aperture – but the others I will play with later.

(eBay item #350132914444 – you have to ask for the new chip and pay a small premium for it.)

I quickly programed it by the use of my one right hand and my two left hands, both with two thumbs. In all, I was successful after the 16th attempt (I kept count on a stroke sheet). The first 15 were just getting used to the instructions. I finally got a handle on it when I tried the alternative method of entering the command mode using the AI SERVO mode.

Now I had an adapter set for 65mm focal length (EXIF info only) and f5.6. I mounted the old M42 lens body containing the VPK Meniscus lens and no aperture mechanism. This being the reason I wanted the adapter – the fixed aperture value.

The Sun was almost set, so I was able to shoot in AV mode against the Sun and every other direction and then to top it off, a shot at the side of the house in very dense shade. I shot with RAW and JPG (I was using the XTi).

Last week I did almost the same thing with my earlier f2.0 adapter and one half of the RAW were seriously dark to full black. The results tonight were very well exposed RAW in all shots. The EXIF showed the 65mm focal length, the aperture of f5.6 and the varying shutter speeds. AND it is also a focus confirming chip.

I am very happy overall and I will be ordering two more as soon as the pension check is deposited next week. This adapter is black anodized aluminum.

To prove it wasn’t a fluke, I dismounted the adapter and lens, mounted an AF lens, shot some with it and then remounted the MF adapter and lens. The settings were still there.

Now I have to wait for a decent day to go out and have some fun with this 90 year old lens.

A few new images

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I went out yesterday with the HawkEye 2A lens and the VPK meniscus lens. Both were used via an M42 to EOS focus confirming adapter. I visited the Fairmount Cemetery and the Erie Canal Park, both in Camillus, NY. There are pictures in both pages.

Pinhole Update

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CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER ADAPTER INFORMATION ON MY BLOG

Since I have been ‘collecting’ quite a few M42 135mm lenses to use as ‘host bodies’ with the various old Kodak lenses, I find myself with an ‘extra’. I am going to put a pinhole holder inside on the helical focusing section. This will allow me to easily use various size pinholes at different focal lengths with my Canon XTi. The dismal body cap pinhole images I have gotten after several tries at pinhole sizing are making me rethink how best to use a DSLR and a pinhole. I am going to make sure that I use the RAW format in an attempt to circumvent the JPG software gremlin inside.

The very best images from any of my pinhole cameras come from the Yashica A conversion. I am fairly sure this is due to the twin lens system it has. I am able to focus and frame the shot with the top lens. I feel that since both lenses move on the same platform and both lenses are very close to the same distance from the film plane, that the focus does actually work. Using this premise, I will build the above mentioned lens for use on the DSLR’s.

With the upcoming Pinhole Day 2009 on April 26, 2009, I have a month to build and experiment with the concept. How to make the changeable holder for the pinholes seems to be the toughest part of the project.

This pinhole project and putting the Kodak Bimat lens in a 135mm host body are on the ‘to do’ list today.

CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER ADAPTER INFORMATION ON MY BLOG

A New Chip Available For M42 to EOS Adapters

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I was looking for an M42 to EOS adapter that the seller would program with a custom aperture. There was one auction on eBay from a Hong Kong seller that alluded to being able to put aperture and focal length in. Using the ‘ask the seller a question’ route, the answer came back that there is a new chip available that allows the user to make changes in both the aperture and focal length information stored in the chip attached to the adapter. The price for the new chip added a minimal cost to the adapter with a generic f2.0. Also it makes slight mention of having an MF/AF option so when set to MF you can take a picture when the green focus LED is NOT lit. If set to AF, then you have to have focus confirmation before the shutter will fire. Of course I ordered one. I have no idea if there is a Nikon version available.

When I get the adapter with the new chip, I am going to try to set it for a focal length of 63mm and an aperture of 5.6. These are the general settings for the VPK meniscus lens. There is no aperture adjustment on the VPK lens assembly I put together. This should alert me, when in shutter priority mode, that the speed is too far afield; if it is, the f setting in the viewfinder of 5.6 will flash. Also, I will make sure it is set to MF in case I try some shots where the auto-focus might not work; as in low light, fireworks, moon images, etc. The focal length is only used as EXIF information.

I’ll put a posting in with my impression of the adapter after I give it a road test. If this works out, I will probably get an adapter for each of my ‘custom built’ M42/Kodak lenses.