Convert Yashica A to Pinhole

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Yashica A Pinhole Conversion

Anything described or shown here is for informational purposes only. In other words, if you try to duplicate anything here yourself, any results, personal injury, problems, or damage – real, imagined, made up, dreamt or any other type – is your (look in a mirror if in doubt of who I mean ) doing and responsibility. Simply put – you break it you fix it. Proceed at your own – see in the mirror again – risk,

I apologise (for using a perfectly good camera such as this copy) for this conversion.
One other thing, I realize purists of pinhole photography rightly will feel using more than a tin can,
cardboard box, etc is overkill. However, currently people are using pinhole covers on DSLRs that cost
upwards of $5000 list, so I think using a camera from the B&W era is well within reason.
That said, on with the conversion! It is actually very simple and, except for one tool -a lens spanner, doesn’t need or 
require any special tools or talent. First, grabbing hold of the chrome cover on the lower, picture taking lens, unscrew it
counterclockwise. Don’t bother removing the chrome cover, it hides nothing underneath.

Second, from inside the camera, remove the rear lens by use of the lens spanner.
Lacking this tool, I grabbed the ring with a pair of needlenose pliers and unscrewed
it carefully. Once this lens is removed, you will see the aperture. Leave it alone, it won’t hinder
anything. Be very careful as the blades are extremely delicate.

Third, remove the ring on the front of the picture taking lens removed in step one that holds the front 
glass in place. Use the lens spanner for this.
Again, be very careful as the shutter itself is now unprotected.
IMPORTANT !! 
If this lens does not come out when the ring is removed, it is now up to you to use whatever means you choose
to remove the lens from this piece.
A quick note – it is possible to attach the pinhole directly to the front of the camera over the
hole left when the picture taking lens was unscrewed. Therefore removing this glass is not absolutely necessary
I wanted to use as much of the original camera as possible. 

Fourth, find or buy the parts necessary to fit the pinhole itself to the camera. What follows is how
I mounted mine after removing the front glass. In the small parts section of a local hardware store
I found a steel fender washer that fit in the front section of the front lens piece and a black,
rubber grommet that pressure fit to hold it in place temporarily. I super glued the prepared pinhole
on to the fender washer. Then I painted both sides of the washer with flat black paint, coming as
close as possible to the pinhole without filling it with paint. After it dried thoroughly, I used
the grommet to hold it in place with the pinhole itself on the front facing the outside of the camera.
Open the aperture to the largest opening. If it is possible, set the shutter speed to what you have determined
you need. Put it on the B setting to hold the shutter open manually if a long exposure is necessary.
Load up the film and experiment ! Have fun ! I imagine that I will make several pinholes before deciding
which size I want to permanently attach.

NOTE – Kodak makes a B&W film that you may want to give a try. It is processed as C41 – the ‘normal’ 
35mm color film processing. So, any lab that can put the 120 film in their machine, can process it.
The film box says – Kodak Professional BW400CN C41 Processing. I paid $23 (in 2008)for a box of five rolls.
I would suggest you take the outer box with you to the lab in case they are not familiar with the film.

I now have a nice looking 120mm TLR (paid $72 in 2008)camera with some features not normally on a pinhole camera. 
There is a fairly accurate framing lens. The aperture can be set, whether this will help or hinder I can’t say yet.
I think it might aid in blocking stray light from hitting the film once I find the setting that doesn’t cause
darkening of the image corners. Also, there is a working shutter, which when used with an adapter, can be operated
with a cable trip. Plus the ability to use roll film.