The Marx Brothers Meet Abbott and Costello On Fantasy Island

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OK, last Saturday a local station went off the air due to an equipment failure and is still not back on 5+ days later. Our Satellite provider threw up a ‘don’t call us, we know about it’ message. Last night, after checking with several others, we found that the satellite feeds were kaput. So, we called the satellite provider on Tuesday. The story was it was being worked on. Wednesday we found that my sister, on the local cable connection was fine. On Wednesday evening the story from the satellite provider changed to – we have sent you several emails and snail mails regarding this- your contract is up and we are moving the locals to an HD upgrade package – so sorry-too bad. Needless to point out that we had never received an email or letter from them. Thursday (today) we found on the local channel’s website that it was a broadcast problem and that they had moved their signal to an HD sub channel of their sister channel. In the meantime we had called and set up for local cable for a year at 2/3 the price. Now we faced going through the change to cable – four TV feeds in the house through the walls to be replaced, etc. Add in the fact that Verizon is very close to adding TV to our existing FIOS connection. So, I asked my spouse to please cancel the cable cutover and I would set up an antenna to use with that converter box the government told us to get. Stay with me, I’ll get to the point soon. So, when she went to my Sister’s place to watch her soaps (the REAL reason all this was a problem – I’m happy once a week to watch SYFY on Tuesday night) I had a thought. I have a ham radio discone antenna already in place with about 25 feet of coiled excess from the preformed 100 foot silver/teflon feed line I used to connect to my rig on the second floor. I disconnected the feed, re-routed it through an access panel to the closet in the bedroom and hooked it with a triple adapter PL BNC F to the converter box. VOILA! There were the on air digital channels and sub channels. So, we are now able to watch the missing cannel on the sister channels weather sub channel and my scanners and ham rig are idle until Verizon gets FIOS TV to us.

We also DIRECTly found that the satellite provider’s customer service will lie through it’s teeth to make an upgrade sale.

The real reason for this post – we were told by a national radio/tv/phone outlet that where we are would require a directional yagi style antenna with a rotator to get the signals due to the almost 180 degree spread in location of the local transmit towers. Well, the discone is sucking them up just fine with a 100 foot feedline and lossy adapters.

Dandelion Chip with Olympus E-510

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DISCLAIMER:
IF YOU SHOULD CHOOSE TO FOLLOW ANY OF THE FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS ON YOUR CAMERA, IT IS DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO WHOM THE TERMS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’ REFERS TO- WALK TO THE NEAREST MIRROR AND THAT FACE YOU SEE DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF YOU AS YOU LOOK INTO THE MIRROR IS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OF YOUR ACTIONS.

I recently purchased an adapter to mate M42 lenses to my Olympus E-510. The seller gave me a set of directions referring to the E1 family with a couple of updates supposedly referring to the E-510. Needless to say, they didn’t work. I then found three other sets of instructions on the Internet in various forums. None of these worked, I am assuming the writers had never had an E-510 within fifty yards of themselves and had only reworked what others had written.

What follows is exactly what I found to work with the Dandelion chip and my E-510. They will include how I set the custom aperture and focal length.

These first steps have to be taken first every time a setting is to be changed -they put the camera/adapter into a programming mode -

Turn the camera on

Set the mode to A

Set the focus to MF mode

Press the FN button just below the wheel to the right of the mode dial.

Press and release the lens release button – a simple push and release – do not rotate the lens

Within one second of the above step press and hold the FN button for three seconds

Release the FN button

Press and release the lens release button – a simple push and release – do not rotate the lens

At this point the aperture value should change as the wheel to the right of the mode dial is rotated – if not – turn the camera off and start over. If it doesn’t work after several attempts you may have a different Dandelion chip version than I have.

Note – The above steps have set the camera and chip in to a programing state. The next value entered will access a particular portion of the chip. To set the aperture use f5.6; to set the focal length use f8.0 The focus and the aperture of the M42 manual lens have no bearing on doing the programing. Leave the lens wide open and set the camera to allow shutter trip without the focus LED being active (MF).

Note – After changing either the aperture or focal length turn the camera off. Don’t just start changing the other value – the chip will get a headache.

Below are the steps to be taken AFTER entering the program mode – one set for aperture and another set for focal length (which I am assuming from my experience and Internet comments sets the IS feature value)-
———————–
To adjust the aperture value in the chip

Using the wheel, adjust the aperture value to 5.6 *

Press the FN button and release

a)Turn the wheel to select the first digit of the f value you want – referring to the values below

b)Make sure the lens cap is off and point at a fairly bright light source

c)Press the shutter completely down and release allowing only one shutter action to be completed – wait for the image to be saved on the card before continuing.

Set the second digit and do steps a, b and c again.

Press and release the lens release button

Turn off the camera

=====
F4.0=0 | F4.5=1 | F5.0=2 | F5.6=3 | F6.3=4 | F7.1=5 | F8.0=6 | F9.0=7 | F10=8 | F11=9

IE to set an aperture of 4.5 the first aperture value is 6.3 the second aperture value is 7.1

Values that can be entered are f1.0 to f8.0
=====

The value you choose should now be displayed and still there after turning off the camera, removing and replacing the lens and adapter and turning the camera back on

————————

To set the focal length –

Use the value of 8.0 rather than 5.6 *

Using the same values from the line above set five digits rather than 2

Otherwise each step is the same as for aperture

IE to set a focal length of 135 the values entered would be –

4.0 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 5.6 | 7.1

Values that can be entered are from 00001mm to 65535mm

The popular consensus is – the closer the focal length entered matches the lenses value, the better the IS works – thus it appears to be useful with a zoom lens you would have to fiddle each time you change the zoom value. I only use primes with these adapters. The default is said to be 65535mm, so either turn off the IS or set the value correctly before trying any actual photography. I was having a heck of a time the first time out after mounting the adapter with its original f2.8 and 65000mm+ setting. I was getting very out of focus and fuzzy results when the aperture was stepped down to 4.0 or smaller.

Using a Sears 50/1.4 I set the aperture for 2.0. I’ve found this setting to be useful with the RAW format from an actual 1.4 to 2.8 lens setting. The lens FL I set to 50mm.

This is copyrighted by me, please give my blog credit if you grab it entirely for re-use. Otherwise the Temporium blood worms I have under contract will crawl out of your modem one night and eat your brains – very noisily and very slowly. Failing that, paraphrase a bunch and they may leave you alone.

DISCLAIMER:
IF YOU SHOULD CHOOSE TO FOLLOW ANY OF THE PRECEEDING DIRECTIONS ON YOUR CAMERA, IT IS DONE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO WHOM THE TERMS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’ REFERS TO- WALK TO THE NEAREST MIRROR AND THAT FACE YOU SEE DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF YOU AS YOU LOOK INTO THE MIRROR IS ‘YOU’ AND ‘YOUR’. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY OF YOUR ACTIONS.

Olympus E-510 Received

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The camera arrived three days ago, but until this morning, the focus confirm M42-4/3 adapter hadn’t arrived. Until today all I had done was hold a Minolta lens in front of the camera to verify everything as working.

I made a few quick test shots today, none worth posting, to get used to the live view feature. I believe this might turn out to be a fantastic camera. By locking the mirror up and using the live view, it is possible to see the focus, framing and aperture adjustments in real time on the screen. I don’t see myself using the live view handheld, but, on a tripod I think it will shine.

Today I put a test roll through the Argus FA and dropped the roll off to be processed. The main thing I am concerned with are the dried out light seals. Depending on the results, I may have a project ahead of me. I have the material to use from other projects in case they are needed.

Another One

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I spotted this on eBay and figured why not ?

Olympus E-510, purchased from Olympus as a refurb in March 2009 and used for two months for birding. Then the burst speed was determined to be too slow for his taste and he went to a Canon digital. He was selling the body with free shipping for $225.

The registration distance of the E-510 is very short. This simply means that any lens with a registration of a larger value will work with the camera. Most of the lens brands already have adapters for them manufactured and on sale at the bay. See this website for further info on using lenses across brands. Registration Distance Information
Now I have
Canon 300D 6mb
Canon XTi 10mb
Fujifilm S2 6mb – Nikon F mount
Pentax *istD 6mb
Olympus E-510 10mb
(in order of purchase and the XTi being the only one purchased new) They all also use CF cards so that is one thing I don’t have to purchase and duplicate.

That covers about everything. The neat thing about the E-510 is that it doubles the lenses. So, my favorite 300mm 5.6 lens is now a 600mm 5.6 lens at much less than the cost of a new lens. The Fujifilm mated with an ARSAT 20N 2.8/20; the Pentax with the 8mm Peleng fisheye and the XTi with the Sigma 15-30mm zoom take ample care of the wide angle.

Also, the most I paid, except for the new XTi, was $250 on eBay for the rest of the bodies. Shop carefully and bide your time, what you want will come your way.

1A Autographic Images

Here are images from a 1A Autographic Anastigmat lens mounted on an M42 extension tube and used via a focus confirmation adapter.

They were taken in the Camillus, NY Erie Canal Park area.

Kodak Bimat Lens Images Added

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There is a new page in the right hand column with six images taken with a Kodak Bimat lens. The lens was attached to an M42 extender tube, then to the end of a bellows. The bellows was attached to my Canon XTi with a focus confirming adapter.

A Replacement For The Damaged Fujifilm S1

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In a moment of extreme weakness, I bought a Fujifilm S2 on the Bay. It will complement my Canon XTi, and Pentax istD. Now I can use just about any lens made for 35MM format cameras by simply mounting a non-optical adapter to one of the three cameras.

I await its arrival to set up a shootout with my lenses; to be posted here. I have several M42, a couple Nikon and a dozen custom mounted pre-1939 uncoated lenses to try out. I am figuring at least three hours will be needed to finish it all. Perhaps three segments by aperture settings, to keep the lighting somewhat even, on a very clear day. 10:30AM to 1:30PM seems a goal.

Nearby my house is a small park that has a nice section where there are trees, shrubs, buildings, play ground equipment, etc to allow DOF to be apparent. The results will be posted here on separate pages. Maybe within a month I will get it completed.

M42 Lens On Nikon F Mount Modification – On Fujifilm S1 PRO

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Adapter Information On This Blog

Long story short-

I have modified my Fujifilm S1 PRO to accept M42 lenses directly without need of an optical adapter.
I have destroyed the sensor on the Fujifilm S1 PRO through carelessness – not related to the actual modification.

See my warning at the bottom of the right hand column on this blog regarding doing anything I describe on this blog. In this case, maybe I should have read it myself

Long story-

I noticed the thickness of the original mount on the S1. It eyeballed with a rule as ~2.5mm. Then I compared it to the thickness of the M42 to Nikon F mount adapter that I recently purchased. It eyeballed at ~1mm. This meant, if all went well, the 1mm difference between the registration of the Nikon F mount and the registration of an M42 lens would be more than made up.

Since the plate is held by only 5 screws, I removed it. The adapter appeared to be able to fit in the original mounts place if the electronic contact piece was removed. Two screws and a small pry later that was out of the way. Yes – the adapter fit nicely in place.

Using the original as a template, I drilled five holes with detents for the screw heads in the adapter. Then I put three of the screws in place, took a picture and proceeded to put the remaining screws in place. Disaster struck when the screwdriver slipped on the fourth screw. The tip of the screwdriver hit the shutter curtain leaving a small dimple. I figured that it wasn’t a big deal and finished the mounting.

I took a couple shots inside (it was around Midnight) to check close up focus and then put the leash on my Yellow Lab and went outside looking for something bright enough to check infinity focus. A store a few blocks away with a nicely lit up sign gave me that opportunity.

Returning home, I downloaded the TIFFs onto my computer and did a quick look. OOPS! (not really what I said) There was a huge black spider web in the images. Assuming what the problem was, I proved it by opening the shutter as if I was going to clean the sensor. Yup, the cover over the sensor was smashed.

Bottom line –

The actual modification works. The two images with the spiderweb were taken with a cheap Tamron 70-210mm M42 mount via adaptall. The closeup of the digital clock was approximately at a distance of ~7 feet, the sign at a distance of ~400 feet. In fact, the lens actually focused beyond this distance.

NOTE: Make sure to have the M/AF switch on the front of the camera near the lens release set to M to ensure the focus motor doesn’t try to operate.

Being a klutz ruined the camera. Please read my warning referred to above before attempting this yourself.

In retrospect, since this was to be a non-reverse able modification anyways, if I were to do it again I would simply use a good brand of gel super glue in the place of the whole drilling of holes and use of screws to hold the adapter in place. (read the disclaimer)

Spring Is Here ! At Least Until Tomorrow …….

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We got a reprieve today. Last night the forecast was for 1-3 inches of snow and overcast for today. The snow did not fall and the Sun has been out all day. I took the time to take a few pictures with my Canon XTi with a Sears 50/1.4 M42 lens mounted with an adapter.

These were all taken at f1.4 to try out the small depth of field. I guess I am not going to have to spend money on a new EF Canon 50/1.4 lens. The Sears lens had been pushed into the back of a drawer after I compared it to my Canon EF 50/1.8 metal mount in relation to the additional brightness available. I just never considered using it seriously for actual photography. The DOF difference and the brightness have made me a believer, also it is nice to have a metal lens.

Anyone know the years of manufacture/sale for the Sears lens? Also, what company manufactured it ?

The New Pinhole Project Is Complete

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The pinhole is mounted in the M42 lens body to be used via an M42 to EOS adapter on my Canon XTi. There is about 20mm of focus movement available. A few test shots with ASA 1600 and a rainy day indicate that the focus range looks good. The proof will come when we get some Sun.

This again, is for the upcoming Pinhole Day 2009 on April 26, 2009.

CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER ADAPTER INFORMATION ON MY BLOG
CLICK HERE FOR FURTHER PINHOLE INFORMATION ON MY BLOG